The Multifaceted Interpretations of “War Hoodie” in Contemporary Culture and Fashion






War Hoodie Analysis

Executive Summary

This report provides a detailed analysis of the term “war hoodie,” clarifying its diverse interpretations and focusing primarily on the contemporary streetwear brand “Who Decides War.” The analysis reveals that while the phrase can refer to historical garments or cultural memes, its most prominent association is with the luxury fashion label founded by Everard Best (Ev Bravado) and Tela D’Amore. This brand is distinguished by its unique aesthetic and profound philosophical underpinnings, centered on faith, culture, and a reinterpretation of Americana through an inclusive lens. The report examines the brand’s distinctive design elements, its strategic market presence, and notable considerations regarding its publicly reported sustainability practices. By dissecting these various meanings, the report offers a comprehensive and accurate understanding of a seemingly ambiguous term.

1. Introduction: Deconstructing “War Hoodie” – A Multifaceted Term

1.1 Clarifying the Ambiguity of the User Query

The phrase “war hoodie” initially presents a significant semantic ambiguity, as it does not denote a singular, universally recognized item or concept. While a user’s query might intuitively point towards a specific fashion brand, the literal combination of “war” and “hoodie” can inadvertently evoke a range of historical, cultural, or commercial items that incorporate these elements in their nomenclature or context. This report aims to meticulously disambiguate these interpretations, with a primary focus on the “Who Decides War” brand, while also providing essential context for other related terms to ensure a complete and accurate understanding.

The word “war” itself, when applied to apparel, carries vastly different connotations, ranging from a philosophical concept within a brand name to a historical marker of conflict, a subcultural symbol of rebellion, or even a derogatory political slur. This wide divergence in meaning necessitates a precise delineation of each interpretation to prevent misinterpretation and to underscore that the “war” within “Who Decides War” is symbolic and rhetorical, distinct from literal military conflict or historical attire.

1.2 Overview of Primary Interpretations

The predominant interpretation of “war hoodie” in contemporary discourse revolves around the luxury streetwear brand, “Who Decides War,” which offers a distinctive range of apparel, including hoodies.1 However, the phrase can also be linked to other concepts:

The evolution of garments from functional military wear into civilian cultural artifacts, as seen with the Souvenir Jacket and Battle Jacket, demonstrates a broader pattern where clothing transcends mere utility. These items become imbued with new cultural significance, reflecting changing societal values, acts of rebellion, or commemoration. This historical trajectory provides a valuable framework for understanding how contemporary brands, such as “Who Decides War,” can infuse apparel with profound meaning and social commentary.

Table 1: “War Hoodie” Interpretations at a Glance

2. The “Who Decides War” Brand: A Deep Dive into Contemporary Streetwear

2.1 Foundational Story: Everard Best, Tela D’Amore, and the Brand’s Evolution

The “Who Decides War” brand was founded by the creative partners and life partners Everard Best, widely known as Ev Bravado (or Mrdr Brvdo online), and Tela D’Amore.2 The brand’s journey began with “Lease on Life Society” in 2014, evolved into “Ev Bravado” in 2015, and was subsequently reintroduced as “Who Decides War” in 2019.2 This evolution reflects a continuous process of refining its narrative and identity.

Best’s exposure to garment construction began early, rooted in a family legacy of tailoring. His father and uncle, immigrants from Barbados, established a tailoring shop called “Alteration Consultants” in Long Island, a name that would later inspire the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection.8 Although Best initially did not envision a career in fashion, he absorbed the meticulous process of garment creation from this environment. Similarly, D’Amore learned to sew from her mother out of necessity, crafting her own clothes due to limited means.8 This shared background in hands-on garment creation, born from personal experience and family tradition, provides a strong foundation for the brand’s emphasis on craftsmanship and authenticity.

It is important to note that while one source 15 incorrectly attributes the founding to “Maya Thompson and Jamal Walker,” the overwhelming majority of reliable sources consistently identify Everard Best and Tela D’Amore as the founders.2

2.2 Core Philosophy and Artistic Vision: Faith, Culture, and Redefining Americana

The name “Who Decides War” is intentionally rhetorical, serving as a powerful statement designed to draw awareness to human well-being and global events.12 The founders articulate that “war is a spectrum,” encompassing not only conflicts between nations but also struggles between individuals and internal battles. This perspective positions the brand as a commentary on the pervasive nature of conflict, suggesting that no single entity holds absolute control over its various manifestations.10

The brand’s mission statement is deeply rooted in instilling faith, culture, and a handmade touch into each garment.7 It actively challenges societal norms and rejects conformity, utilizing fashion as a potent tool for activism and social change, particularly concerning issues of race.12 A central tenet of “Who Decides War” is its redefinition of traditional Americana designs through the lens of people of color.9 This involves crafting a detailed narrative that reflects the contemporary world and explores Black culture within the United States.11

The birth of Best and D’Amore’s son in 2018 marked a significant shift in their creative focus, moving from an emphasis on “hype culture” to a deeper consideration of legacy and impact, with storytelling becoming a primary objective of their work.10 The brand is characterized as streetwear in its most authentic and celebratory sense, offering clothing that serves as a form of “armor” for individuals to express themselves and foster a sense of well-being.8

2.3 Signature Design Elements: Denim Craftsmanship, Stained Glass Motifs, and Activism in Apparel

“Who Decides War” has gained widespread recognition for its innovative and “amped-up” denim silhouettes.1 Their denim pieces are frequently described as “couture” due to the intricate, multi-layered processes involved in their creation.9 These processes include expert garment distressing, artful slashing and rips, and multi-phase hand-dyeing, all executed with meticulous attention to detail.7 The brand is also notable for its pioneering use of unique fabric combinations; Best and D’Amore were among the first to seriously incorporate lace with denim jeans, which has since become a signature element.8 Other materials like raw Italian silks and canvas are also utilized in their collections.10

A prominent and unmistakable design element across their collections is the arche motif of a stained glass window, which appears as cut-outs, quilting, and intricate embroidery.2 Additionally, collections feature graffiti-inspired embroidery 11 and deconstructed traditional tailoring, further showcasing the brand’s commitment to technical prowess and artistic subversion.11 The overarching emphasis remains on meticulous craftsmanship and a distinctive handmade touch in every garment.7

2.4 The “Who Decides War” Hoodie Collection: Style, Pricing, and Availability

“Who Decides War” produces a diverse range of hoodies, primarily for men, though the brand has expanded to include women’s silhouettes.2 These hoodies feature a variety of graphic prints, the brand’s signature stained glass motifs, and scripture designs. Unique design elements include raw hems, flame cable knit, and signature mechanic zip-up styles.2

The pricing for “Who Decides War” hoodies positions the brand firmly within the luxury streetwear segment. Prices can vary significantly, ranging from approximately $217 to over $2,000, with some items available on sale.2 The hoodies are available in a comprehensive range of sizes, typically from Small (S) to Extra-Extra-Large (XXL) or Triple-Extra-Large (XXXL).2

2.5 Market Presence and Influence: Retail Partnerships, Collaborations, and Celebrity Endorsements

“Who Decides War” has established a robust market presence through strategic retail partnerships and high-profile collaborations. The brand’s products are available at major retail giants such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Selfridges.8 Online, their collections can be purchased through platforms like Farfetch 2, Neiman Marcus 17, and Julian-Fashion.18 Additionally, their items frequently appear on resale sites such as eBay and The RealReal, indicating strong demand and secondary market value.16

The brand’s strategic collaborations have significantly expanded its reach and industry recognition. Notable partnerships include working with Virgil Abloh for Off-White’s denim offering 8, as well as collaborations with Levi’s, H&M (including an H&M x Basquiat collection), and Jordan Flight Court.8 These collaborations not only demonstrate the brand’s credibility within the fashion industry but also serve to introduce its unique aesthetic to broader audiences.

A significant driver of the brand’s influence is its impressive roster of celebrity endorsements. “Who Decides War” has garnered a substantial following, with its designs embraced by prominent figures in fashion and entertainment. These include the late Virgil Abloh, model Alton Mason, and musicians like Ice Spice, Playboi Carti, and Joey Badass.8 Other notable supporters include Jerry Lorenzo, J Balvin, Heron Preston, Kerby Jean-Raymond, and John Elliot.13 This organic celebrity support is a cornerstone of their marketing strategy.

The founders, Best and D’Amore, prioritize funneling resources into creating highly memorable fashion shows over allocating substantial budgets to traditional advertising or paid placements.8 They heavily rely on organic social media engagement and the inherent strength and quality of their product to drive growth.8 The founders’ deep personal connection to craftsmanship, stemming from their family tailoring backgrounds, and their desire for full control over the brand (operating a “tight ship”) directly translate into a marketing approach where the product’s intrinsic quality and the brand’s authentic narrative are paramount.8

This demonstrates that in a highly competitive market, deep-rooted authenticity, meticulous craftsmanship, and a compelling brand story can be more effective marketing tools than conventional advertising, fostering genuine consumer connection and cultivating a cult status. This approach suggests a strong confidence in the product’s ability to resonate with consumers on its own merit.

2.6 Sustainability and Ethical Footprint: An Analysis of Brand Practices

Despite its compelling philosophical mission and artistic vision, “Who Decides War” faces scrutiny regarding its sustainability and ethical practices. According to Good On You, a reputable ethical rating platform, the brand receives an overall rating of “We Avoid”.20 This low overall rating is broken down into specific scores: 2 out of 5 for Planet, 1 out of 5 for People, and 0 out of 5 for Animals.20

The primary reason cited for this low rating is “insufficient information about the actions it’s taking to address its impacts on people, the planet, and animals”.20 This indicates a significant lack of transparency concerning their supply chain, labor practices, environmental policies, and material sourcing. For instance, at least some of their products, such as the “Cathedral Fusion Denim,” are manufactured in China.21

This situation highlights a notable paradox: a brand whose core philosophy is deeply rooted in social awareness, human well-being, and activism, and which aims to “redefine Americana through the lens of people of color” 9, is simultaneously opaque about its own operational impact on people, the planet, and animals. This creates a critical gap between the brand’s powerful message and its publicly verifiable commitment to operational sustainability.

While the brand’s narrative is profound and impactful, there is a clear opportunity for strategic improvement in its public reporting on ethical production practices. The brand’s explicit positioning as “streetwear in the most authentic and celebratory sense” 8, coupled with its denim being referred to as “couture” due to its complex, artisanal process 9, signifies a crucial evolution in streetwear. This movement transcends casual wear, elevating it to a sophisticated, artisanal form of expression. By actively reclaiming and reinterpreting cultural narratives, particularly “Americana through the lens of people of color” 9, the brand positions streetwear not merely as a trend but as a powerful medium for social commentary, identity, and challenging established fashion hierarchies, effectively bridging the gap between “street” and “luxury.”

Table 2: “Who Decides War” Brand Profile

3. Beyond the Brand: Other “War Hoodie” Interpretations

3.1 The “Vatnik”: A Russian Cultural Meme and its Disparaging Connotations

The “vatnik” is a derogatory term in Russian culture, referring to a padded cotton wool jacket (ва́тник) and the individual associated with it. This meme originated from a cartoon created by Russian artist Anton Chadskiy, using the pseudonym Jedem das Seine.3 The term is used to disparage someone as a “blindly patriotic and unintelligent jingoist”.3

The symbolism extends beyond mere clothing; Russian linguist Gasan Guseinov describes the vatnik as a garment of “poor, destitute people who possess nothing else and who are ready to wear it for the rest of their lives,” underscoring its association with poverty, lack of agency, and a perceived intellectual subservience.3 This interpretation of “war hoodie” is purely metaphorical, reflecting socio-political divisions and a specific cultural critique.

3.2 Historical Echoes: The Souvenir Jacket (Sukajan) and its Post-War Origins

The souvenir jacket, or Sukajan, emerged as a distinctive fashion item in post-World War II Japan. Its origin is specifically traced to Yokosuka, where U.S. servicemen stationed at the naval base sought personal keepsakes from their time abroad.4 The trend began when a U.S. serviceman took his flight jacket to a local tailor in Yokosuka to have it embroidered with his name and colorful oriental designs as a memento. This personalized garment quickly gained popularity among other soldiers, leading to its widespread duplication.4

These “souvenir jackets” were typically cut from silk or satin, sometimes even from excess parachute silk, and incorporated the style of the American baseball jacket with bold colors and contrasting sleeves. The embroidery almost invariably featured motifs associated with the war, such as American eagles, and Eastern-influenced designs like dragons or tigers, which soldiers had seen on captured Japanese submarines or other war trophies. Some jackets even depicted detailed maps of military campaigns, which could be controversial depending on where they were worn. Conveniently, many were reversible, offering different motifs on each side. The designs often conveyed an appreciation for Japan, despite the recent conflict, with some jackets bearing the country’s name.4

These jackets were sold at gift shops in port cities and even on base camps, becoming known as “Yokosuka jumper,” later abbreviated to “Sukajan” in Japan, a name they retain today. Tailor Toyo, a local tailor operating since WWII, remains a prominent producer of these cult jackets.4

As new conflicts arose in Korea and Vietnam, the souvenir jacket became a staple in gift shops wherever American GIs were stationed globally.4 The Vietnam-era versions often had a darker aesthetic, reflecting soldiers’ sentiments about being in an unwanted war, with embroidered phrases like “When I Die I’m Going To Heaven Because I’ve Served My Time In Hell”.4

By the 1960s, Sukajan came in various forms, from flight jackets to baseball and bowling shirts. In Japan, the local rebellious youth culture adopted the Sukajan to express defiance against conformity, a style that unfortunately later became linked to criminal gangs.4 Many returning GIs, who often joined biker gangs and other rebel subcultures, continued to wear these jackets, further cementing their association with non-conformity and a rebellious spirit.4

3.3 Subcultural Significance: The Battle Jacket/Cut-off in Biker and Music Scenes

Similar to the souvenir jacket, the “cut-off,” “kutte,” “battle vest” (when sleeveless), or “battle jacket/patch jacket” (regardless of sleeves) also traces its origins to World War II.5 During the war, members of the United States Army Air Corps began decorating their regulation flight jackets with patches commemorating successful missions, as well as cartoon characters and pin-up models.5

Upon their return from WWII, many former airmen became involved in motorcycling. These bikers quickly adopted the practice of wearing denim or leather jackets, often with the sleeves cut off, and sewing on patches known as “colors” to display their associated motorcycle club, geographical territory, and rank within the group.5 This influence from the biker subculture subsequently led to the garment’s adoption by various other youth subcultures in the decades that followed. The cut-off became particularly popular among punks and metalheads during the 1970s and 1980s.5

The term “battle jacket” itself gained widespread popularity among metalheads in the 1980s, coinciding with the common practice of selling band patches at live performances.5 This decade marked the peak of the garment’s popularity in the metal scene, being commonplace during the New Wave of British Heavy Metal (NWOBHM) and early thrash metal scenes.5 While the popularity of battle jackets decreased in the metal subculture during the 1990s, influenced by the rise of grunge and nu metal fashions, they continued to be worn in black metal and death metal scenes, leading to their eventual re-popularization in the 2000s.5

Both the Souvenir Jacket and the Battle Jacket/Cut-off directly stem from military attire, specifically WWII flight jackets.4 Following the war, these garments were re-appropriated by returning servicemen who integrated into nascent counter-cultural movements like biker gangs. Subsequently, youth subcultures further embraced and adapted them, transforming them into symbols of rebellion and individuality.

This pattern reveals a recurring phenomenon where symbols of state power or conflict are re-contextualized by civilian subcultures, stripped of their original meaning, and imbued with new connotations of non-conformity and personal identity. The “Vatnik” meme 3, the Souvenir Jacket 4, and the Battle Jacket 5 all bear direct or indirect connections to war and its aftermath. The “Vatnik” reflects socio-political divisions, while the Souvenir and Battle Jackets are tangible relics of soldiers’ experiences. Even the “Who Decides War” brand, though philosophical in its approach, uses “war” in its name. This demonstrates that conflict, whether literal or metaphorical, leaves an enduring mark on cultural expression, including fashion. Garments can serve as vessels for collective memory, political commentary, or personal narratives shaped by wartime experiences, illustrating how historical events continue to influence contemporary cultural artifacts.

3.4 Other Commercial “War Hoodies” (e.g., FTWR® WAR Hoodie)

Beyond the culturally and historically significant interpretations, the term “war hoodie” can also simply refer to a generic product name used by various commercial brands. A pertinent example is the FTWR® WAR Hoodie, a specific commercial product offered by The FTWR Company.6

This hoodie is described as a Champion® WAR Hoodie, indicating a collaboration or use of Champion’s blanks. It is made from a 50/50 cotton/polyester blend and features standard hoodie characteristics such as a two-ply hood with a dyed-to-match drawcord, a front pouch pocket, and a “C” logo on the left sleeve.6 The pricing for the FTWR® WAR Hoodie varies by size, ranging from $54.00 for smaller sizes to $60.00 for XXXL.6

This example highlights that “war hoodie” can function as a straightforward product identifier by other brands, without necessarily carrying the deeper cultural, historical, or philosophical connotations associated with the other interpretations discussed in this report.

4. Conclusion: Synthesizing Insights and Future Outlook

4.1 Synthesizing Insights

The comprehensive analysis confirms that the user query “who decides war hoodie” primarily refers to the contemporary luxury streetwear brand “Who Decides War.” This brand has established itself as a significant entity within the fashion industry, driven by the vision of its founders, Everard Best and Tela D’Amore. Their personal histories, rooted in family tailoring and necessity, have profoundly shaped the brand’s identity and its core philosophy.

“Who Decides War” distinguishes itself through a powerful mission centered on faith, culture, and a deliberate redefinition of Americana through an inclusive lens, particularly that of people of color. Its distinctive design elements, notably the “couture” quality of its denim and the recurring philosophical motifs like the stained glass window, underscore a commitment to meticulous craftsmanship and artistic expression. The brand’s market presence is bolstered by an effective, organic marketing strategy that prioritizes the intrinsic quality of its products and leverages high-profile collaborations and celebrity endorsements over traditional advertising.

However, a critical observation arises from the brand’s publicly reported ethical footprint. The “We Avoid” sustainability rating from Good On You, primarily due to a lack of transparency across its operations (Planet, People, and Animals), presents a notable paradox. A brand that champions profound social messaging and activism is simultaneously opaque about its own operational impact. This discrepancy highlights a common challenge in the modern fashion industry, where compelling narratives about social impact may not always align with verifiable ethical production practices.

Finally, the report has clarified that “war hoodie” can also refer to distinct historical and cultural phenomena, including the derogatory Russian “Vatnik” meme, the post-WWII Japanese Souvenir Jacket (Sukajan), and the subcultural Battle Jacket/Cut-off worn by bikers and music enthusiasts. These alternative interpretations underscore the importance of contextual understanding when encountering such an ambiguous term.

4.2 Future Outlook

“Who Decides War” has successfully carved out a culturally significant and commercially viable niche within the streetwear landscape, effectively bridging the gap between street aesthetics and luxury craftsmanship through its authentic approach and compelling narrative. The brand’s ability to elevate streetwear to an artisanal form while actively reclaiming and reinterpreting cultural narratives positions it as a powerful voice in contemporary fashion, challenging established hierarchies.

For the brand’s sustained growth and to fully align its operational practices with its stated philosophical mission, addressing the transparency gaps in its sustainability and ethical footprint will be crucial. This could involve implementing clearer reporting on supply chains, labor practices, and material sourcing. Such initiatives would not only enhance its reputation but also appeal to an increasingly conscious consumer base that demands accountability.

The imperative for holistic brand integrity in modern fashion dictates that a powerful brand message, while impactful, must be supported by transparent and responsible operational practices to ensure long-term credibility and market leadership. The future success of “Who Decides War” may well depend on its capacity to close this gap, transforming its profound philosophy into demonstrable, responsible practices across its entire value chain. The brand’s continued ability to deliver unique, meaningful designs while navigating the complexities of scaling its operations will ultimately determine its enduring legacy in the fashion industry.

Works cited

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